Tire  Changer Picture (1)
Here are a few pictures of my motorcycle tire changing setup. It's a very simple setup and the parts to build it are
    relatively inexpensive. I used one 2' section of 5/8" threaded rod that you can purchase at Lowe's. I turned down the
    top 8" of threads on my hobby lathe so I wouldn't have to turn the wing nut so far before it made contact with the
    motorcycle tire rim. You could also use a grinder. You need to leave at least 6" of thread above the top of the 13" car
    rim. 6" of thread should be more then enough to lock down most any motorcycle tire.

                                  Tire changer picture (2)

  Here is a close up of the simple wing nut I welded up. This speeds up the mounting and removal of your motorcycle tire.
  Without removing the top 8" of threads on the threaded rod its a LONG way to turn that nut down to lock the tire on to
  the rim. You DO need the extra length though as a pivot/leverage point for the tire tool. I tie rapped some of that nylon
  reinforced flexible rubber hose to protect my motorcycle tire rims from scratches. The rubber hose also helps keep the
  motorcycle rim from slipping when your mounting and demounting your tire. Note that I welded a 3/4" ID washer in the
  center of the car rim. This keeps the car rim centered and makes a sturdy place to torque the car rim to the 2"x6"
  treated lumber that I have C clamped to my picnic table. You can mount this setup to almost any thing your mind can
  imagine, a work bench, custom welded floor mount, motorcycle trailer, trailer hitch, kitchen table etc....

                                 Tire changer picture (3)

  I use a piece of PVC pipe on the exposed metal rod to help protect the shiny finish on my no-scufftiretool and to protect
  the threads on the threaded rod. The PVC pipe covers the part of the rod that I removed the threads from and any left
  over threads after you lock the tire down. You can also see a small piece of 1/4" wood under the flat metal stock. The
  wood protects the finish on my motorcycle tire rim when I torque it down to the car rim. After the wing nut is torqued
  down it's becomes very stable so you can lever your tire tool around it easily.

                                 Tire changer picture (4)

  I ended up cutting the top outer lip of the car rim off with a saws all and then tacking two runs of 1/4" round stock to the
  top of the rim. I wanted a nice flat surface for the rubber tubing to rest on and I wanted ample clearance so my brake
  rotors wouldn't hit the bottom of the car rim. My Valkyrie came just a bit to close for my liking. Doing this also gave me
  a little more play to move the motorcycle rim around a bit, and get it centered correctly. I just used what I had.

                                 Tire changer picture (5)

  Notice the 1/2" rod that is welded on the top and bottom of the left side of the rim. The top rod that you see in the
  picture keeps the motorcycle rim from spinning on the car rim, and the bottom rod keeps the car rim from spinning on
  the 2x6. The only thing I didn't show is a 1/2" ID piece of transmission rubber hose that fits over top metal rod to
  protect your motorcycle rim. When you mount your motorcycle rim on the car rim make sure to butt one of the spokes
  up against the rubber protected metal rod. All of the tire tools available (No-scuff, No-Mar, Wikco, MoJo etc..) require
  the user to apply either a clockwise or counter clock wise motion to demount and or mount a tire on a motorcycle rim.
  If you find one that doesn't please email me because I want to see it. One of the problem with the Harbor Freight tire
  changer is it has a tendency to let the rim spin when leverage is applied during the mount and demount process. A
  spinning rim is either going scratch your rims or make you cuss.

                                                              Hitch attachment (1)

  I decided I wanted a bit more flexibility on where I could use the changer simply because I wanted to make it easier
  to gain access around the circumference of the tire. I mounted a Run Flat Car Tire (yup went to the darkside) on my
  Gold Wing and found I needed the extra room. The side walls on a RF car tire are 3/4" thick so I had to really torque
  on the last bit of the tire to get it mounted. I got it mounted though and it only took a couple of minutes. Anyway you
  can see from the picture how the car rim is mounted onto the square tubing. I'm using 1 1/4" square tubing that
  attaches to the trailer hitch on my cage. The male vertical portion of the attachment slips into a correctly sized female
  piece of tubing. The correctly sized square female collar is welded to the car rim on both sides. I also welded a small
  metal stop near the top of the square vertical male tubing to prevent the car rim from sliding to the bottom of the
  male tubing. All I have to do to disassemble it is just lift up on the car rim since gravity holds it in place during the
  tire changing process.

                                                                    Hitch attachment (2)

  This is a side view of the trailer hitch attachment. Easy to assemble and just as easy to disassemble and it works great!
  I stopped at a local junk yard and picked up an extra scissor jack for $5 to support the bottom of the hitch attachment.
  I needed an extra scissor jack for doing front end maintenance on the Wing so I killed two birds with one stone. I could
  have got fancy and made an adjustable mount to take the place of the scissor jack but why? The part of the tubing that
  slides into the trailer hitch does not even need to be secured. I tested it out by demounting and mounting a tire on a
  spare rim several times and it never even moved. I can put all my weight on it which is sometimes necessary to slip the
  first bead of the tire over the rim and the tire changing rig is solid. When I mounted the run flat on the Wing I had to
  put my whole weight on the sun WARMED tire (with some tire paste) to slip the first bead over the rim.

                                           Necessary tools

  I use the 1/4 oz sticky weights pictured below to balance my tires and you can get these weights at any tire shop.
  The cheap motion pro tire iron in the picture below is either the 8.5" or 11" one and it's used for for two different
  1) When demounting the tire sometimes it's necessary to pry the tire away from the rim so the demount tip
      can be inserted easier.  Notice that I have slipped a  1/2" ID piece of transmission hose over the pry end to protect
      the rim.
  2) After inserting the demount tip sometimes it will be necessary to lift the tire bead up to avoid putting to much
      pressure on the demount tip when flipping the tire tool over 90 degrees.

  Notice the top of the motion pro tire iron has been modified by heating it up with a torch and bending the tip in a vise.
  I also hit it with a wire wheel and then painted it to keep it from rusting. With this modification you can easily slip the
  hook end in next to the demount tip and then lift the tire bead up. The last item is a simple spray bottle with the tire
  lubricant of your choice. Save your self some trouble and just buy a small tub of tire paste lube as well. I recently went
  to a local tire shop and picked up a small tub of generic tire paste lube. All I had to do was bring a small container with
  me and they gave me a pint of it for free. I'm gonna bet this is almost identical to the No-mar paste and is what I'll be
  using from now on. This stuff is so slippery I was able to mount a Run Flat tire on my GoldWing rim using it. FYI, Run
  flat tires have 3/4"solid rubber STIFF side walls and I don't think I could have mounted the Run Flat tire without using
  the paste. It also washes off with just water and will NOT corrode or damage your rims. Did I say this stuff is really

                                        My hoss bead breaker picture (1)

  After a really bad experience trying to break the bead on a Valkyrie rear tire, I fabricated this hoss bead breaker! It's
  4ft long and I used 1" solid square stock. Anyway it makes it super easy to break any tire bead and that's what I was
  shooting for. The 1" solid stock is way over kill and you could get away with using some thick wall tubing and it would
  cost less. It's all about leverage!

                                   My hoss bead breaker picture (2)

Notice the UHMW that protects my valuable motorcycle tire rims. This is a very simple setup and easy to fabricate if
  you have the right tools and materials, and it will break ANY bead on ANY motorcycle tire.

                             MY hoss bead breaker picture (3)

                               This is a tire balancer I fabricated

The bearings I used are from the wheels of roller blades and are very easy to find and they are cheap (cheap is good)
  and work really well! Anyone with basic welding skills can makes this balancer or one like it fairly easy. I popped the
  bearing covers off and cleaned the grease out of them and replaced it with synthetic motor oil. This simple task made
  the bearings roll smoothly with minimal friction and this is what you want. I used bolts to hold the bearings to the angle
  iron. Just get a local machine shop to make cones for you for about $30. You can drill and tap the screw holes in them.
  Have the machine shop drill the 1/2" hole in the cones and then you can pick up a 1/2" drill rod at Lowe's and your
  pretty much set. There is a detailed "how to" document link on my home page you can access and use to build your
  own tire balancer.

  If you have any specific questions about building any of this equipment or need help doing so, you can contact me at
  noscufftiretool (at) yahoo (dot) com.
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